“St John is said to have come to Ephesus twice: once between AD 37 and AD 48 with the Virgin Mary, and again in AD 95 towards the end of his life, when he wrote his gospel on Ayasuluk Hill. A 4th-century tomb was believed to house his remains, so in the 6th century Emperor Justinian (r 527–65) erected a magnificent church, the Basilica of St John, on top of it.
Earthquakes and marauders turned the site into a heap of rubble until a century ago when restoration began; virtually all of what you see now is restored. In its day it was considered a near-marvel and attracted thousands of medieval pilgrims. Even today it still draws busloads of ‘holy site’ tourists during the season. Look out for the information panel with a plan and drawing, which gives a very good idea of the building’s once-vast size – as do the old marble steps and monumental gate.

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